FAQ

The licker-in also fills itself with wool. It is only necessary to clean it when changing the wool color or type of wool. Then cut the wool at the place of the seam of the carding cloth and use the cleaning brush to remove everything.

The S15 was the unlacquered version of the S10.

Spare parts of the S10 fit on the S15. If you need a bobbin or flyer, you can choose between that of the S10C IrT (lacquered) and S17 (unlacquered and therefore still to be finished).

The art yarn fliyer fits almost all Irish tension (bobbin-driven) Louët spinning wheels, except for:

• S70 / S71
• S90
• The very first S10 spinning wheels in which the mother of all has 2 in stead of 1 rail mounted on the back post.

With both single and double treadle you can use one foot. This gives you the opportunity to sit diagonally to your spinning wheel. If you use two treadles, treadling will be lighter, but you will need to sit straight opposite to your spinning wheel.

When spinning with high ratios, which of course requires more power, you benefit from the double-treadle system.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to convert old generation S10 spinning wheels. This is because there have been many minor changes over the years, making it impossible for us to make a standard conversion kit for it.

The S10 Concept, the new version of the S10 since 2015, gives you the possibility to convert it from single to double treadle, and vice versa.

If you are handy, it may be possible to fit the double-treadle base of the S10C to the upright of your old spinning wheel in a well functioning manner, but we cannot give any guarantees for this.

Possible causes:

• Too little twist, the yarn is not strong enough for winding up.
• This can also happen if you want to make a very irregular yarn. The thinner parts need a lot of twisting before they are strong enough.
• The yarn pulls in too hard. The tension is too great .Reduce tension with the knurled nut.
• Wool of bad quality (too short fibre).

Possible causes:

• You are treadling too fast, compared with the speed of your hands.
• The yarn pulls in too slowly. You must brake the flyer a bit more. Or maybe the yarn is obstructed by a piece of straw.
• The yarn is caught on one of the yarn guiders.

The joined turning of flyer and bobbin makes the twist in the yarn. If one of the two turns slower, the yarn will wind onto the bobbin.

Slowing down the flyer (Irish tension) or the bobbin (Scotch tension) is done by an adjustable brake. The more you brake, the harder the yarn pulls. If you slow down more than necessary to pull the yarn in sufficiently, treadling is a bit heavier than necessary.

Because with Irish tension the flyer is also slowed down by the air resistance, you can loosen the brake leather completely when you start with an empty bobbin. When the bobbin becomes more filled up, with both tensioning systems you will have to brake more to keep the same pull on the yarn.

With this you can also solve the problem of Irish tension that it pulls too hard when spinning a very thin yarn; that problem only exists as long as the bobbin is still little filled. So use a half-full bobbin for the very thin spinning. We also supply the so-called fat core bobbins for this purpose.

Possible causes:

• More brake on the flyer than you need.
• The yarn is obstructed by one of the yarn guiders on the flyer.
• You spin thick and irregular yarn with too high speed. Shift the drivebelt on the bobbin.
• The bobbin is full.

Possible causes for this problem:

• You are holding the wool supply too tightly.
• The twisting got in your wool supply. Take care that the twist does not come behind your right hand. Keep thumb and finger closed.
• Wool of bad quality (felted, needs combing or carding)

You can use a pair of pliers to tighten the guide, pushing it together where the metal wire enters the plastic part. Because it is a spring wire, you have to squeeze so far that it does not spring back completely to the old position. If you tighten it too much, it is hard to open it again, so the best way is to squeeze it a bit more each time, and re-test.

If you are not using the spinning wheel, it is advisable that you take the tension of the drive belt by placing it in front of the pulley on the metal shaft (Scotch tension) or behind the bobbin on the flyer bearing (Irish tension). You can also remove it completely from the wheel.

If the knife makes a noise during the up and down movement, you dissolve that with one drop of sewing machine oil on the ends of the knife that run in the grooves.

Possible cause: The little clamp, which connects the shaft side with the cord, has come loose.

Attention: The screws in these clamps have a PH (Phillips Head) crosshead and the PZ2 (pozidriv) screwdriver supplied with the loom does not fit properly. However, most Phillips screwdrivers are PH and will therefore fit.

Keep the shaft in its lowest position and fasten in the clamp. If the clamps on both sides of a shaft are loose, you must ensure that the dobby hook of that shaft is exactly flush with the others when you secure the shaft in its lowest position.

A possible cause is that the dobby hook of the faulty shaft did not come high enough after the previous shed, so the screw head that should lock the hook did not pass the edge of the guide plate. The screw head stays against that plate; the dobby hook remains extend forward and will be picked up by the knife, making next shed.

A cause of this problem may be that the shaft does not sink back into its lowest position, for example because it gets stuck on the lower shaft bar of the shaft next to it. It helps if you make sure that there are some heddles at the ends of all shafts, even if you do not use the entire width for the fabric. Ensure that the shaft cords run through the slots of the shaft bars. A shaft can also get stuck because unused heddles close together form a kind of brush at their cut ends with which the shaft sticks on the other shaft bars.  Spread unused handles over the shaft!

Another cause of the problem that the screw head is not high enough to block the shaft can be a too tight adjustment: the shaft does fall back to its lower position, but at that position the screw head just does not return over the edge of the guide plate. You can see this when you remove the dobby head or interface from the loom: If the shafts are in their lowest position, there must be 2 to 3 mm space between the screw heads and the guide plate.

If it is necessary to adjust this space on a shaft, proceed as follows:

• To make sure that you are working with the same shaft on both sides, it is advisable to mark the shaft with a piece of colored yarn.
• Loosen the little bolts of the clamps, that connect the shafts on both sides with the cords, so far that they can be moved. Attention: The cross head screwdriver that is supplied with the loom is of the PZ (pozidrive) type and does not fit exactly in the cross head of the clamping bolts, which are of the PH type (Phillips head). If you have a Phillips screwdriver yourself, it is probably PH (Phillips head), because that is more common.
• If the bolts are loose, you can move the dobby hook up and down while keeping the shaft in its bottom position.
• Re-tighten the bolts, just tight enough to keep them in place, while the shaft rests in its lower position and the screw head for the blocking has approx. 2 mm clearance with the edge of the guide plate.

You loosened a shaft bar on both sides and accidentally re-secured it upside down.

Possible causes for Octado and Megado:

• The knife of the dobby is too high. The position of the knife must be so high that the screw head of the rear shaft can move freely under the knife if the pedal is not depressed (the rest position).
• The pedal cable does not run properly over the roller that drives the knife.

For all looms:

• The beater is too high.
• The cloth must be advanced.

Possible causes:

• The pedal cable has been disconnected.
• If the loom is equipped with an interface, you may have waited too long after making the previous shed. Activate the interface with your software.
• A program bar has been brought into position that is not provided with tabs, so no shafts are activated.

Possible causes:

• The brake cable is not properly positioned around the brake disc; the windings must lie neatly next to each other, or the tension must be higher.
• The brake cable is routed in the wrong direction around the brake disc.
• The brake pedal (or brake lever) must be adjusted approximately horizontally.

Possible causes:

• One of the ratchets of the cloth beam is not in the ratchet wheel.
• You weave with so little tension that the warp beam does not unwind. Turn the warp beam by hand.
• The apron bar of the cloth beam is blocked by one of the floating arms.

Possible causes:

• The locking pin is still in the parallel cords.
• An error in tying-up the treadle; the treadle is tied-up to both, the upper and lower lam of the same shaft.

This problem can occur with the Spring, Delta, Octado and Megado looms. Possible causes:

• The springs of the floating arms are not disconnected.
• One of the cords that lock the floating arms is not connected.

Possible causes:

• The brake of the warp beam must be released further.
• The pawl lies in the ratchet wheel of the warp beam (for Spring / David looms).
• If you weave with low tension, the cross sticks can provide too much resistance; remove them from the warp.
• With a very low warp tension it may also be necessary to release the brake and rotate the warp beam manually